Saturday, March 31, 2007

Site of the day: SideStep

SideStep searches more than 150 websites to find some of the best travel deals the internet has to offer. The app features a comprehensive search list customizable down to the type of currency you prefer to see prices in -- Want to pay in the Ugandan Shilling? You got it.

Our favorite feature on SideStep is the application's ability to link everything together. When you specify that you're going to be landing in New York's LaGuardia airport, for example, SideStep knows you'll probably need a hotel and/or car on a certain date and has that portion of the app already filled out for you. Although that automation may only sound like a few seconds of saved time, SideStep's total trip integration really makes the booking process easy and ensures you won't overlook any needed bookings

Friday, March 30, 2007

Tips for finding local flavors

If you truly want to get the feel for a city, you need to get a taste of the city first.

"You don't really understand a place unless you've eaten its specialties. It's what they pour their hearts into. It's where their pride lies, and it's one of the greatest delights of travel," said Pauline Frommer, creator of the Pauline Frommer travel guides.

Take a look at some tips from Frommer and other experienced travelers on how to make sure eating like a local is a piece of cake.

Do your homework

Before you venture to a new city, you need to find out some basic background information about your destination.

"Why eat seafood if you are in the middle of a desert? It is important to know what that area of the world is known for," said Zay Harding, a host of the travel TV show "Globe Trekker."

Once you familiarize yourself with the area's specialties, you can start making some concrete plans. You don't need to pick out restaurants just yet, but you'll want to get an idea of the types of places you should be targeting.

"Take some simple time ahead and actually map out your trip and plan out your trip. Get online and do the research to find the places so that you don't find yourself stuck at the hotel asking the question, 'OK, what do I want to eat tonight? Where do I want to go?'" said Jeremy Reed, a content editor for CitySearch.com.

Make a list of several spots you might want to check out, but don't get locked in on any particular place just yet.

Ask before you eat

You need to check in with the right sources when scoping out potential restaurants.

"Never ask the concierge where to eat at your hotel because they often get kickbacks, and they'll send you somewhere very touristy. In fact, you should probably not ask anybody who works at your hotel," advised Frommer.

Instead, get outside the tourism industry. When you are looking for the best local restaurants, stick with asking the locals.

"Ask, ask, ask," Harding said. "Always ask the locals. Get lots of opinions so that way you have lots to choose from."

Harding recommended targeting your questions. If are looking for a really nice restaurant, ask someone who is dressed up. If you want to try some cheap eats, don't ask the man in the tuxedo. College students always know where to find the best deals in town.

Shop around

Ask around, get your options, but don't commit yet.

"The neat thing about restaurants is that you can window shop. You don't always have to just stay and get stuck in something," Harding said.

Try to find places with a personal touch, then go inside and ask to see the menu. If it doesn't look like the restaurant is serving what your after, go somewhere else. When traveling, you have limited meals, so don't waste one on a restaurant that doesn't measure up.

Read more.



Thursday, March 29, 2007

Maps of Kolkata

Calcutta or Kolkata (the official name for the past five years), with a population in the metro area of about 13 million people, is the third largest city in India, behind Mumbai (Bombay) and Delhi. The city straddles the Hoogli (also sometimes spelled Hugle) River between the Bay of Bengal and India's sacred Ganges River.

Calcutta Web has a series of good street maps of the city available online:

· North Calcutta

· NE Calcutta

· North Central Calcutta (Entali to Bagbazar)

· South Calcutta (Tollygunge to Park Street)

· South Calcutta (Garia to Jodhpur Park)

· Far South Calcutta (the Jadavpur area)

· Far South Calcutta (Behala, Thakurpukur)

· East Calcutta (Kasba, Tiljala, Kankurgachi)

· West Calcutta (Khidderpore)

· Howrah

· Salt Lake (Bidhan Nagar)

Some other good maps of the various West Bengal District:

· 24 Parganas (South)

· 24 Parganas (North)

· Bankura

· Bardhaman

· Birbhum

· Cooch Behar

· Darjeeling

· Dakshin Dinajpur (South)

· Uttar Dinajpur (North)

· Hoogli

· Howrah

· Jalpaiguri

· Maldah

· Medinipur

· Murshidabad

· Nadia

· Purulia

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

5 things you never knew your cell phone could do

There are a few things that can be done in times of grave emergencies. Your mobile phone can actually be a life saver or an emergency tool for survival. Check out the things that you can do with it:

First
Emergency

The Emergency Number worldwide for Mobile is 112. If you find yourself out of the coverage area of your mobile; network and there is an emergency, dial 112 and the mobile will search any existing network to establish the emergency number for you, and interesting ly this number 112 can be dialed even if the keypad is locked. Try it out.

Second
Have you locked your keys in the car?

Does your car have remote keyless entry? This may come in handy someday. Good reason to own a cell phone: If you lock your keys in the car and the spare keys are at home, call someone at home on their cell phone from your cell phone. Hold your cell phone about a foot from your car door and have the person at your home press the unlock button, holding it near the mobile phone on their end. Your car will unlock. Saves someone from having to drive your keys to you. Distance is no object. You could be hundreds of miles away, and if you can reach someone who has the other "remote" for your car, you can unlock the doors (or the trunk).

Third
Hidden Battery Power

Imagine your cell battery is very low. To activate, press the keys *3370# Your cell will restart with this reserve and the instrument will show a 50% increase in battery. This reserve will get charged when you charge your cell next time.

Fourth
How to disable a stolen mobile phone?

To check your Mobile phone's serial number, key in the following digits on your phone: * # 0 6 # A 15 digit code will appear on the screen. This number is unique to your handset. Write it down and keep it somewhere safe. When your phone get stolen, you can phone your service provider and give them this code. They will then be able to block your handset so even if the thief changes the SIM card, your phone will be totally useless. You probably won't get your phone back, but at least you know that whoever stole it can't use/sell it either. If everybody does this, there would be no point in people stealing mobile phones.


Fifth
Free Directory Service for Cells

Cell phone companies are charging us $1.00 to $1.75 or more for 411 information calls when they don't have to. Most of us do not carry a telephone directory in our vehicle, which makes this situation even more of a problem. When you need to use the 411 information option, simply dial: (800) FREE 411, or (800) 373-3411 without incurring any charge at all. Program this into your cell phone now.

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Dubizzle in Dubai

Dubai rocks -- you just don't know it yet. Get the inside scoop on the richest city in the world.

Monday, March 26, 2007

Which is the best place for Team India to hide?

Which is the best place for Team India to hide?

Suggest the perfect hideaway for the Indian Cricket Team and you could win a surprise gift from TravelPort.

Send in your entries to promotions@travelport.in

Last date: 30th April, 2007.

Decision of TravelPort is final and binding.

Saturday, March 24, 2007

India made easy

For the first-time visitor to India, the sheer vastness of the country — more than a million square miles — all but defeats the romantic notion of seeing all that this place has to offer in anything approaching the usual time frame of a normal vacation. Retirees no longer punching the clock, college students who want to take a couple of semesters off, backpackers on a global journey of exploration: these are the kinds of travelers that India seems made for.

But what about the rest of us who are limited to one or two weeks of vacation a year? Is India completely beyond our grasp?

In a word, no. Even sampling the tiniest geographical crumb of India over a period of 7 to 10 days can be a satisfying travel experience.

Quite rightly, no one wants to miss the Taj Mahal, especially on a first visit, so our suggested route pivots around that Platonic ideal of tourist attractions. Spending a couple of days first in the nearby capital of New Delhi — a strange patchwork of imperial Mughal monuments, bustling urban villages, leafy British Raj-era avenues and expanding middle-class housing colonies — is bound to give you a good taste of urban India. Still, some two-thirds of Indians live outside the nation's cities. With that in mind, this route, after passing through Agra, site of the Taj, and the ruins and palaces of Gwalior, culminates in Orchha, a riverside village well-stocked with palaces, tombs, Hindu temples and ordinary village life.

Rajasthan? That fascinating, tourist-infested merry-go-round has been deliberately omitted, though it is a place worth coming back to when you have time to explore its less overdeveloped pockets. The hiking trails of the Himalayas and the beaches of Goa? Next time.

Start your trip in New Delhi. Like a steaming bath, the city is best eased into slowly, and there are few sights more soothing than catching an advanced yoga practitioner holding a pose in the city's lush Lodi Gardens with the spooky, 15th-century domed tombs of the Lodi sultans looming in the background. Residents from the well-to-do neighborhoods nearby go there to picnic or jog it all off, while young couples still head there to coo discreetly, keeping alive the park's historic function as a romantic hideaway safe from conservative parents' horrified eyes.

The gardens are convenient to sites like Humayun's Tomb, a serene, enormous red sandstone monument dedicated to the second of India's Mughal emperors, who lost an empire, recaptured it, and died in 1556 in an unlucky tumble down a staircase. As you gaze at the pearly-white onion dome, you might wonder to yourself: how much nicer can the Taj Mahal possibly be?

Other interesting old monuments — the Kalan Masjid, Khan-i-Khanan's Tomb — are scattered about the surrounding neighborhoods, some primarily used as giant, priceless wickets for informal cricket matches. From Humayun's Tomb, a mad scamper across busy Mathura Road will get you to the shrine of the Sufi saint and mystic Nizamuddin Auliya. As with all the approaches to India's sacred pilgrimage sites, there is a gantlet of brazen commerce to be run, in this case mostly of men selling rose petals, just the kind Nizamuddin likes to be offered if he's even to think about answering your prayers. A defunct airport-style metal detector marks the edge of hallowed ground; it is here, and no sooner, regardless of the cries of the petal-sellers, that you must leave your shoes (here and anywhere else you go barefoot, storage for 5 to 10 rupees a pair, or less than 25 cents at 45 rupees to the U.S. dollar, is about right). Women are expected to cover their heads — shawls go for around 50 rupees.

Spend enough time watching the crowds flit around the chandeliered, prettily painted shrine, and sooner or later a small troupe of qawwali singers will shuffle into the marble courtyard. A crowd gathers around as they sit cross-legged with harmoniums and tablas, using their hands to almost physically fling their rhythmic, ever-escalating hymns through the shrine's open doorway. If the mood strikes, you are welcome to rise up and whirl like a dervish with arms outstretched in ecstasy.

The crowded, narrow lanes of the neighborhood surrounding the shrine are only a warm-up for a visit to Shahjahanabad, the walled city built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century and now usually called Old Delhi, though it is by no means the oldest part of the city. The obvious sights include the beautiful Jama Masjid, reputedly India's largest mosque (the view of the strangely cubic cityscape from the top of one of the minarets is more than worth the 20-rupee ticket), and the hulking Red Fort, its innards sorely vandalized by the British.

But aimlessly exploring the walled city's monstrously corroded grandeur is much more fun. Bazaars are often devoted to a single trade, thus a street given over to shops selling wedding stationery abuts another swimming in oily motor parts.

Much of Old Delhi life goes on unabashedly out in the open. Young men get facials in open-fronted male beauty parlors, or you might spot a gaggle of children getting bucket-washed in the courtyard of a haveli, a once-grand mansion sunk into decay. Some kind of encounter with goats is virtually guaranteed, many of them dressed attractively in ladies' sweaters during the winter. None of them seem even remotely alarmed at the sight of stalls piled high with severed goats' heads.

It pays to be friendly to any sweaty, orange-glowing man you see perched over the fire-filled manhole of a bakery's tandoori oven. He may reach in and fish out a free naan for you, carefully trying to avoid burning yet another scar into his forearm. Even the most nervous of street-food eaters should try the fresh-baked sweet potato, dusted with some delicious species of sneezing powder.

Read more

Friday, March 23, 2007

The cartoon trail leads to Brussels

You can lead a child to art but you'll have a terrible time trying to make him go inside. Not all the blandishments of a modern art gallery - shops, café and interactive displays that mean you don't even have to look at the damn pictures - will work if you have a pair of philistines like mine. Certainly not when you're in Brussels, which as far as those two are concerned is all about chocolate shops. So while my wife popped into the Musée Royaux des Beaux-Arts for Bosch and Brueghel, I frogmarched our barbarians back to the hotel past that obnoxious little Manneken Pis.

We were just turning into Rue de l'Etuve when I spotted something odd on the exposed gable end of a house. It was two men and a dog coming down a fire escape. "That's Tintin! " said John. And, indeed, it was. A life-sized Tintin, Captain Haddock and Snowy, all making their way down a two-dimensional fire escape that had been painted on to the side of the house.

Turning into Rue du Marché au Charbon, we saw another one. Not Tintin this time but a Richard Hannay-type character guarding a heroine in hat and gloves, painted on to the gable end of a bar. Strangely, the street behind our moustachioed cartoon hero in the mural was the exact same street that we were looking down now - but as it might have appeared 100 years ago. We were in effect looking at the same view twice, once in reality and once in a cartoon.

Across the road there was another huge mural. Down the side of a café someone had painted an aerial view of the road we were standing in with a cheerful character I recognised as "Broussaille", crossing it in the company of his girlfriend. In the background of the mural we could see the very building we were looking at now. It, too, had a mural painted on the wall above the cafe. For a moment I almost expected to see us standing in the cartoon staring up at the cartoon.

Read more.

Wednesday, March 21, 2007

10 Walt Disney vacation tips

With four major theme parks -- Magic Kingdom (bigger in itself than California's Disneyland), Epcot, MGM Studios, and Animal Kingdom-- a Walt Disney World vacation can be complex and costly: all the more reason to plan carefully to make sure you have the best possible time.
Below are tips to help you have a great Disney World Vacation. (Click on each tip for details.)

1. Pick your time of year with care. You need to balance three main factors: crowds, heat, park schedules. Don't overlook the importance of park closing times!

2. Pick your park according to Extra Magic Hour. Every morning, one of the four theme parks opens early for resort guests only. Either rush to the early opening yourself, or avoid that park for most of the day.

3. Get to the theme parks early. This advice is especially important for Disney's water parks (which are packed by noon) and Animal Kingdom (which closes early.)
In the Magic Kingdom, Main Street opens early so people can have breakfast at Crystal Palace and Cinderella's Royal Table. Arrive early, and you can race to Splash Mountain as soon as the park officially opens.

4. Take a break in the afternoon . Go early to the park of your choice; take a break and return to your resort or hotel when the day is hottest; return to the parks in the evening. Three theme parks have lots to offer after dusk.

5. Use Fastpass . Fastpass compares favorably to sliced bread as a great invention. It's free, it's simple, and it saves you from standing in line for the most popular rides. Get the most out of Fastpasses-- and your whole Disney World vacation-- by using them strategically.

6. Bring snacks and drinks. These tips can save you money on hot and humid Florida days when your kids need to drink liquids all day long.

Read more.

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

Feast fit for a Pharoah

From the creators of the $25,000 dinner, there's another pricey gourmet feast on the horizon.

Wealthy foodies can mark their calendars for Dec. 12, 2008, when top chefs from around the world will be flown to Egypt to cook a dinner in front of the ancient Pyramids of Giza, organizer Deepak Ohri said Monday.

This dinner will be a bargain, at least compared to the one in Bangkok last month that was billed as the meal of a lifetime and cooked by six 3-star Michelin chefs for $25,000 a head. High-rolling food lovers flew in from the United States, Europe, the Middle East and across Asia for the 40-seat dinner.

The price for dining beside the pyramids has not yet been set, but it will cost less than $10,000 per person, said Ohri, the managing director of Bangkok's luxury Lebua hotel, the event planner behind the dinners that are boldly titled "Epicurean Masters of the World."

Though cheaper, the upcoming feast is intended to be even grander than its predecessor.

"It will still be for millionaires, but this dinner will be for a lot of millionaires," Ohri told The Associated Press.

Some 500 tickets will be sold for the dinner to be cooked by 30 3-star Michelin chefs.

About a third of the chefs already have confirmed their attendance; each chef will prepare a meal for roughly 17 diners.

Read more


Monday, March 19, 2007

Marvelous Maldives

Sun, sand and sea, a thousand ‘Robinson Crusoe’ islands, massive lagoons with different depths and infinite shades of blue and turquoise, dazzling underwater coral gardens; a perfect natural combination for the ideal tropical holiday destination. However, there is more to the Maldives than just that. A string of pearls scattered over the deep blue Indian Ocean, the first glimpse you get of this fascinating atoll-formation confirms two unique aspects of the Republic of Maldives. Not only does it consist of the most beautiful tropical islands, but 99% of its 1190 islands are spread over 26 atolls, ring-like coral formations enclosing a lagoon, which gives the Maldives its unique paradise-like appearance.

Male would certainly count as one of the smallest capitals in the world in terms of its physical size. Different from any other island in the country, Male is a city of high-rise buildings and paved roads. While the government offices are located in one area, the main streets are lined with shops and offices. In the old bazaar area which still houses the country’s hub of wholesale and retail trade, the lanes are so narrow that a single vehicle would find it difficult to navigate through, especially with its throngs of busy people.

The Maldives is famed for its rare underwater beauty. The profusion of psychedelic colours and the abundance and variety of life underwater have fascinated divers and snorkellers since Maldives was discovered as a diving destination. The Maldives has some of the best dive sites in the world and many visit the Maldives repeatedly for the sole purpose of diving. Many of the resorts have excellent house reefs. Just a short swim from the beach and snorkellers too can experience the same pleasures from the surface.

Did you know that Maldives ranks among the top five places on the planet for watching whales and dolphins? Over 20 different species (a quarter of the world’s total) call the Maldives home. These range from the mighty Blue Whale (the largest animal alive) to the diminutive but highly acrobatic Spinner Dolphin. Alternatively, if you would like to see even more dolphins, and whales too, go on a cruise on one of the many comfortable safari boats.

Read more.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

All things bright and beautiful


If a wildlife enthusiast dies and goes to heaven, she would find herself in Kruger National Park, South Africa. The park is justly renowned for the sheer magnificence of its landscape and the prodigious diversity of its animal, bird and plant life.


I was in Johannesburg for a workshop and there was a lot to see and do in that city—the new Constitutional Court built on the site of the notorious Fort Prison complex and the township of Soweto being two major shrines for visitors paying their respects to a vibrant post-apartheid society. But Kruger beckoned. So I took the short flight out to Nelspruit and, an hour-long taxi ride later, was on safari in the bushveld.

I went on hikes at dawn with armed rangers and bird-watched on my own around my rustic thatched-roof bungalow at Berg-en-Dal camp (this version of ‘rustic’ included a fully equipped kitchen, running hot water and air-conditioning). But the classic safari trip has to be done in a jeep, bowling along dirt tracks in search of megafauna. While animals get uneasy when they see humans, they don’t mind motor vehicles because they appear like large harmless animals. Or so the guides tell us tourists. And if one’s project is to see Kruger’s Big Five: the lion, elephant, Cape buffalo, cheetah and rhino in the space of a single day, the safari ride is highly recommended.

I made sure to arrive early at our pick-up spot and got the best front seat in the open-air van. The driver John Mahumane doubled up as our guide. The van filled up and by five o’clock we were off through the rolling expanse of 20,000 sq km of grassland and scrub forest. First off, a warthog! It stood stumpily by the roadside, endearingly ugly with its short tusks curving around its snout. The sky was overcast and the air cool; it felt like it might rain. I was a bit anxious that we wouldn’t see much in the dimmer light, but the warthog was a good omen. We soon spotted a male giraffe munching leaves close by. Tiny red-billed oxpeckers hopped up and down its body, pecking at insects and mites, a crew of personal attendants doing a very thorough grooming job.


A herd of about 40 impala grazed a little further, their skin a gorgeous golden, hind quarters and ears crisply marked in black, elegant spiralled horns and impossibly slender legs. Some looked up at us and sprang vertically into the air before leaping away with balletic grace. Lovely. A flock of helmeted guinea fowl with bizarre blue and yellow heads scuttled into the roadside brush, eager to get under cover and out of our sight.

We drove a longish stretch without anything exciting coming into view. I kept my eyes peeled but there was nothing, just green scrub forest speeding past. All except the glimpse of a white rhinoceros which, given the distance and intervening vegetation, could just as easily have been a bhains. There hadn’t been an ooh moment for a while, so John got onto his radio and consulted with other jeep drivers.


Soon enough, we reversed and raced off in a different direction, gliding to a halt near a giant marula tree. And there, sprawled out in plain view on a low branch, was a large male leopard. His sleekly muscled body oozed power. He raised his head to give us a look of bored disdain, and then rested it on his paws to doze, tail hanging languidly. Wonderful.

We were doubly lucky. Heading back after our fill of admiring gazes and photography, we came across another leopard, similarly stretched out on the low branch of another marula tree! It was smaller and more intent on keeping an eye on the herd of impala grazing further away. Daylight was fading and when John shone a bright spotlight on the leopard, its eyes gleamed red. As we drove on through the darkness, another rich vein came into view.


Countless nightjars were abroad, sitting on the roads because the warmer air there attracts insects that get snared in their whiskers (our guide was very knowledgeable). Many lapwing-like spotted dikkop (a.k.a. thick-knees—nice name isn’t it?) took off in startled flight at our approach. We saw three scrub hares, poor pink-eared things desperately hopping to get away from the onrushing lights and sounds of the van. In a nice symmetry, we also saw a tortoise going plod-plod along the road.

Read more.

Friday, March 16, 2007

10 must-see Italian cities

Italy has many beautiful and historic cities worth a visit. Travel to cities is best done by train as driving in Italian cities may be very difficult and the extensive Italian train system is inexpensive. Most city centers are well-suited to walking and parts of the city centers may be closed to transportation. Large Italian cities generally have good public transportation, too.

Check the distances between cities with our Distance Calculator.

1) Rome - Roma

Rome is the capital of modern Italy. Rome is full of history everywhere you look. It has many ancient monuments, interesting medieval churches, beautiful fountains, museums, and Renaissance palaces. Modern Rome is a bustling and lively city and has some excellent restaurants and nightlife. The Vatican and St. Peter's are also found in Rome.

2) Venice - Venezia

Venice is a unique city built on water in the middle of a lagoon. It is considered to be one of Italy's most beautiful and romantic cities. The heart of Venice is Piazza San Marco with its magnificent church. There are many museums, palaces, and churches to visit and wandering along the canals is interesting. Venice is in the northwest of Italy and historically was a bridge between East and West.

3) Florence - Firenze

Florence is one of the most important Renaissance architectural and art centers. Its Duomo and Baptistry are magnificent but crowded with tourists as is their large piazza. Florence has several interesting museums with many famous paintings and sculptures. There are also Medici palaces and gardens. Florence is in Tuscany.

4) Turin - Torino

Turin hosts the winter Olympics in February, 2006. It is a major cultural hub with excellent museums, elegant shops, and good restaurants. There are also some very nice examples of baroque architecture and historic palaces. It has many historic cafes, artisan workshops, and arcades. Turin is in the northeast of Italy, between the Po River and the foothills of the Alps.

5) Milan - Milano

Milan, one of Europe's richest cities, is known for stylish shops, galleries, and restaurants and has a faster pace of life than most Italian cities. It also has a rich artistic and cultural heritage. Its Duomo, with its beautiful marble facade, is magnificent. La Scala is one of the world's most famous opera houses. Milan is in northern Italy, about 30 miles south of the alps, and near Lakes Como and Maggiore.

Read more.

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Monty Python's Travel Agent

Monty Python's hilarious Travel Agent skit.


Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Andamans: Desert island dreams


Let’s go take a close look at that crocodile," Neel suggested, and Harry and I agreed gamely. We were standing on Wandoor jetty, South Andaman watching a seven-foot saltwater crocodile swimming sedately in a narrow channel between Alexandra Island and us. Neel revved the zippy inflatable boat straight towards the croc. Harry and I thought he was giving us an adrenaline rush and we were determined not to react. When it seemed that we were about to land on top of the crocodile, I began squeaking incoherently. But it was too late. The astonished saltie (not a savoury but the affectionate name by which croc specialists call the saltwater crocodile) dived underwater as we zoomed up to where his head had been.

"What are you doing?" I spluttered. "What if the croc had bitten through the boat?" He couldn’t believe a croc would do that. He had obviously not read those infamous tales of salties biting propellers and outboard motors in Australia. The Andaman saltie hadn’t either, so why was I getting worked up about it, Neel asked. I made a mental note to lend him my book of croc attacks for bedtime reading when we got home. That should enlighten him, I decided, but it would have to wait. We were preparing for an expedition to South Sentinel, a tiny uninhabited island near Little Andaman and this near-disaster was the first field test of the rubber boat before we packed it.

The daylight trip would take us to the island at low tide when it would be too shallow to pull up the long massive dugout canoes, Rom had declared after peering for a long time at the Bay of Bengal pilot book. So the plan was to anchor offshore and use the rubber boat to ferry the gear and people to land. Harry, Neel and I had spent the day stocking rations, organising barrels to carry fresh water (there was none on the island), diesel for the two motors and petrol for the generator to charge batteries. Harry had just single-handedly managed to obtain permits after two months of running around and there was no time to lose.
South Sentinel is the less known of the two outlying islands west of the Andaman chain. If you are looking at a map, the little dot way off the west coast of Little Andaman is the island we were headed for.

That night while we sat on the wooden deck of the kitchen, swatting mosquitoes and sipping whisky, I overheard Neel deep in conversation with Saw Pawng (whom everyone called Uncle), our 80-year-old chief of the boat crew. Uncle was appalled to hear that the world was round and not flat. Splendid! Here was our boat captain who thinks he might fall off the face of the world if he kept going straight on. I hurriedly bid everyone goodnight before Neel began bringing Uncle up to speed on the scientific developments of the last two centuries. What Uncle didn’t know hadn’t hurt him and what I didn’t know that Uncle didn’t know couldn’t hurt me.

Rom arrived the next day. After reviewing the food, water, fuel, gear and people, Rom had to ask Neel to stay. "You drink too much water, man," he tried to explain to his dejected brother. Through the day Neel guzzled as much water as his high metabolism sweated out. But having swung into the spirit of adventure, to be grounded must have been disappointing.

While packing the two canoes with everyone’s bags, rations, and equipment, Uncle was muttering something about the world being flat. Oh, how I wish Neel had not gotten this bee into Uncle’s bonnet! Once everything was strapped in place Uncle shouted "Chaabo!" (Let’s go!), the Karen call to adventure. "Remember the world is round, Uncle!" shouted Neel with a wink and a wave. I glared darkly at Neel while Uncle hesitantly brought his hand up to wave and I swore I was going to give him the goriest croc attack book on earth. With pictures of body parts.
Along with us five mainlanders were six Karen.


The Karen were brought over from Burma by the British in the 1920s to work in the islands. Two Karen were in charge of each canoe—one operated the motor and the other bailed out the water that seeped in. Traditionally the Karen rowed and poled their way around the islands until one day an enterprising Karen did something ingenious—patching together a regular 8hp Kirloskar water pump motor, a length of pipe and a propeller and he had a motorboat.


Overnight the motorised dugout canoe became the most efficient vehicle on the waters of the Andaman Sea. Before we teamed up with the Karen, we used fibreglass boats and trawler boats but if something went wrong (and it always does) on the high seas, there was no one to call. Even on dry land, it was pretty hard to find a resourceful mechanic to fix the problem. But with the dugout canoes, the Karen could pretty much strip the pump down and put it back together with the efficiency of a drill sergeant.


The thoughtful Karen had built a tarpaulin shade for us wimpy mainlanders. If it were not for this shade, we would have all begun shedding our skins in a couple of days from sunburn. As we sat cooped up inside, hiding from the blistering sun, the Karen were having the time of their lives. These normally taciturn guys became lively and agile when their canoes skimmed the waters, the sun beat down on their bronze weather-beaten skins and the wind whipped their straight hair away from their faces. Schwete, the most reserved of the Karen, transformed into an exuberant whooping cowboy. With the two canoes racing at full speed nose to nose, Schwete nimbly jumped from one boat to the other to pass the thermos of tea. Just when I thought,


"Phew! Did you see that?" he stood straddling the two boats, a foot on each canoe, as they knifed side by side through the azure blue waters. If you thought Kevin Costner was cool in Waterworld you should have seen this kid!

Five hours later, with the sun directly overhead we lost sight of land; we were out in the high seas with no landmark, no stars, nothing to indicate which was north or south. Neither Uncle nor Saw Pamwe (the other boat captain) had a watch, compass or any technological gizmo to consult.


Had somebody brought a compass? The thought hadn’t occurred to anyone. I knew we were heading southwest, but the crux of the issue was what degree southwest were we? If we went too southwesterly we would zip between North Sentinel and South Sentinel islands without catching sight of either and make landfall in Sri Lanka or worse, Madagascar.


Uncle just bit into his beedi and puffed, his eyes fixed on some imaginary spot on the horizon. Was he going to take us to South Sentinel or to confirm that the earth was flat? There, out in the middle of nowhere, without the familiar profile of land anywhere, I began to question the sanity of this enterprise. The heat and humidity clogged my brain and soon I was asleep.


I woke up gasping for fresh air; the foul fumes of exhaust filled my lungs. We were chugging slowly and I looked around for an explanation. We had arrived. South Sentinel looked like an island should—waves beating on the sand with the calm rhythm of the world’s heartbeat, the white coral sand, the cool green of the forest beyond. The only thing that spoilt the picture was a lighthouse that stuck out like a middle finger above the forest.


The engine finally went dead and we anchored. It was about 3pm. The inflatable boat was pressed into service and the long process of unloading began. It was well past dusk when we finished. The once pristine beach was pulped and churned by human footprints. There had been a water monitor track on the beach when we had first arrived but it was quickly obliterated.
In the meantime camp was being made.


While a dinner of rice and dal was cooking, we bathed in the sea and used one mug of fresh water to rinse off before towelling dry. Sitting around the campfire, eating the most delicious dinner, watching the phosphorescent waves gleaming in the dark was enough to make anyone sigh contentedly.

We woke up early the next morning to see enormous tractor tracks up and down the beach—nesting green sea turtle tracks. High above us a pair of white-bellied sea eagles wheeled over the island, like guardian angels. After a quick breakfast, everyone kitted up and set off for a walk into the island. It’s a tiny island, only 161 ha.


Along the forest edge the sand moved with millions of hermit crabs of varying shapes and sizes and the much larger land crabs of different colours from brown, orange to yellow. Tall pandanus trees shielded the forest from the strong winds blowing off the ocean. The further inland we went, the taller the trees rose. The soil was sandy and several trees had keeled over. We found pieces of broken coral, seashells and other relics of a time long ago when this island was merely a patch of ocean bed.


Smack in the middle of the island was a large circular clearing with an island of beautiful palms and tiger ferns. It looked as if someone had manicured it to make it look just right. We soon found out why the area was clear—it was a tidal swamp. When the tide came in, seawater seeped up from underground and filled the clearing. When the tide went out, the pond drained to become a clearing once again.


We found several enormous coconut ‘robber’ crabs, the largest land crabs in the world, milling about in the clearing. While we stood there silently taking in the vision, I felt something tickle my ankle. It was a coconut crab checking me out, its antennae quivered with unfamiliarity. Schwete tactfully grabbed the crab behind and held it up for me to take a good look. These purplish 10-legged creatures have seen so few humans that they were probably curious.


Tuesday, March 13, 2007

10 myths about family vacations

We don't always know what we think we know... Read on, and see if this page can bust a few myths for you.

1) "Kids Free" promotions mean that kids fly free, too


Not unless the deal specifically says so. "Kids Free" deals are great, but read the verbiage carefully! The words you most want to see are "Kids Fly Free, Stay Free, Eat Free, and Play Free." It's a rare deal that "frees" it all!

Note too that -- unless you're at an all-inclusive-- "Kids Eat Free" promotions typically restrict the free munching to "eating from the kids' menu, when accompanied with a paying adult."

· Read more about Kids Free promotions

2) Farefinders (Travelocity, Expedia..) will find the best airfare for our vacation

They might; but not necessarily. The fare-search functions at such travel sites are very powerful but they don't search all airlines. One notable omission is Southwest Airlines, which is particularly of interest to families because of (a) low fares, and (b) routes and packages to popular destinations such as Disney World. Flights and vacations must be bought directly from Southwest.

3) "Driving time: Five hours 13 minutes"

Mapquest --or other online driving directions -- may state that you can drive from A to B in that time, but Mapquest's calculator isn't driving with live kids in the backseat. Add in snack stops, bathroom stops, and general "just gotta get out of the car and move around stops"-- you need to allow much more time to arrive at your destination.

YMMV (your mileage may vary), but as a rule of thumb: add one hour for each two hours of the trip. (See tips about Car Trips with Kids.)

4) It's hard to travel with a baby

Staying home is "hard" too! I.e., babies need constant care and attention. So why not cash in your Travel Baby Bonus: in many cultures, people will be 10 times more friendly if you have a kidlet. Yes there are logistics… all that gear and stuff; but strollers are portable, and some can do double-duty as car-seats, mobile cradle for afternoon-naps, and beast-of-burden for your diaper bag and shopping purchases. Meanwhile, house-swaps and condo rentals can provide kitchen, laundry, etc.

5) Disneyland is more or less the same as Disney World

West-coasters often think this. Uh-uh. It's true that both have Magic Kingdom theme parks, and that most new rides get built in both places. But while Disneyland has two theme parks, Disney World has four theme parks; two water parks; 22 resorts, some with gigantic grounds; plus Downtown Disney and that even has Cirque de Soleil.

Total area is the size of Boston, and the vast Epcot, Disney MGM-Studios, and Animal Kingdom theme parks are unique to Disney World.

Read more.

Monday, March 12, 2007

A-Z list of African airlines

Algeria

  • Air Algerie. The official airline site is in French. There are several domestic routes as well as flights to France, Britain, Turkey, Syria, Libya, Italy, and Morocco.

Angola

  • TAAG is the Angolan National Airline. There are several domestic routes as well as flights to Johannesburg, Accra, Windhoek, Harare, Lisbon and Paris.

Botswana

  • Air Botswana flies domestic routes and has regular flights to Windhoek, Johannesburg, Harare and Cape Town.

Burkina Faso

  • Air Burkina flies throughout West Africa and has bi-weekly flights to Paris.

Cape Verde

  • TACV The national airline of Cape Verde offers weekly direct flights to Boston (US) for reasonable prices. They also fly to South America and Europe.

Congo

  • Congo Airlines flies domestic routes and has a weekly service to Johannesburg.

Cote d'Ivoire (Ivory Coast)

  • Air Ivoire is the national airline and has a good network of flights within West Africa. The airline also flies to Paris and Marseilles (France).

Djibouti

  • Daallo Airlines is a private airline which has grown to service the Horn of Africa and connect it to Europe. Its network includes; Asmara, Addis Ababa, Bosasso, Burao, Djibouti, Dubai, Hargeisa, Galkacyo, Jeddah, Mogadishu, Nairobi, London, Paris and Sharjah.

Egypt

  • EgyptAir is the country's national airline and one of Africa's largest airlines. Egyptair offers domestic services as well as flights to Europe, the Middle East, India, Thailand and several African destinations including Nairobi, Addis Ababa, and Johannesburg.

Ethiopia

  • Ethiopian Airlines has one of the most extensive networks in Africa (20 countries) and they also fly to Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the US (Washington DC).

Gabon

  • Air Gabon International has recently been launched with the help of Royal Air Moroc (03/2006). No web site as of yet, but that should come soon.

The Gambia

  • Afrinat International Airline offers regional services to Guinea, Sierra Leone, Mali, Ghana, Senegal and the Gambia.

Ghana

  • Ghana International Airlines is a recently established airline (10/2005) and so far only offers regular services from Accra to London. Check the web site for more routes in the future.

Guinea

  • Air Guinee is the national airline of Guinea and it flies domestic routes as well as several routes throughout West Africa. The web site is in French but still easy to get around.

Afrinat International Airline offers regional services to Guinea, Sierra Leone, Mali, Ghana, Senegal and the Gambia.

Kenya

  • Kenya Airways is the country's national airline and flies daily to London as well as several other European destinations. They also service the following countries within Africa: Cameroon, Ethiopia, Ghana, South Africa, Tanzania, Zimbabwe, and Nigeria.
  • Air Kenya flies domestic routes within Kenya and one to Kilimanjaro (Tanzania). Based in Nairobi out of Wilson airport.

Libya

  • Afriqiyah is Libya's national airline. They fly to Paris, Brussels, Geneva, UK, Benin, Ivory Coast, Mali, Sudan, Niger, Chad, Togo, Ghana and Nigeria. They are looking to expand to include a host of other African nations.

Madagascar

  • Air Madagascar is Madagascar's national airline. You can't book through their web site yet but they list their offices worldwide. They fly regionally to Kenya, South Africa, Mauritius and Comores.

Malawi

  • Air Malawi offers domestic flights within Malawi and regional flights include Johannesburg, Dar es Salaam, Nairobi, Harare, Lusaka. Internationally they fly to Dubai twice a week and to London once a week. I've flown them often, it's a very friendly airline.

Mali

  • Afrinat International Airline offers regional services to Guinea, Sierra Leone, Mali, Ghana, Senegal and the Gambia.

Mauritius

  • Air Mauritius has an extensive international network with flights to many destinations in Europe, Asia, Australia. They also fly regionally in Southern Africa and up to Nairobi. There are special fares to the US and Canada, the route is through London or Paris.

Morocco

  • Royal Air Moroc flies to many destinations in Europe and also has a direct flight to the New York. Most of their regional flights operate in Northern and Western Africa.
  • Atlas Blue is owned by Royal Air Moroc and is based in Marrakech. It's a low-cost airline which offers cheap charter flights to Europe from several points in Morocco.

The Seychelles

· Air Seychelles the national airline offers flights to Frankfurt, Johannesburg, Singapore, Rome, London and Mauritius.

Sierra Leone

  • Afrinat International Airline offers regional services to Guinea, Sierra Leone, Mali, Ghana, Senegal and the Gambia.

Somalia and Somaliland

  • Daallo Airlines is a private airline which has grown to service the Horn of Africa and connect it to Europe. Its network includes; Asmara, Addis Ababa, Bosasso, Burao, Djibouti, Dubai, Hargeisa, Galkacyo, Jeddah, Mogadishu, Nairobi, London, Paris and Sharjah.

Mozambique

· LAM is Mozambique's national airline. The web site is in Portuguese but it's easy enough to book flights since the destination names are universal. International destinations include Dar es Salaam, Durban, Harare and Lisbon. They have a comprehensive domestic route which is good considering the roads in Mozambique are quite poor and it's a big country.

Namibia

  • Air Namibia flies to several international destinations including London and Frankfurt. Regionally the airline doesn't venture north of Zimbabwe but you can get good connections to Cape Town, Victoria Falls and Luanda. I've flown them a few times and they're excellent.

Nigeria

  • Virgin Nigeria a new airline operating since June 2005, offers services from Nigeria (Lagos) to London, Accra, Abuja, Dakar, Johannesburg and several domestic cities. Check the web site for new routes coming soon.
  • EAS Executive Airlines Services is a domestic airline in Nigeria offering scheduled services between Lagos, Abuja, Jos and Port Harcourt.
  • Sosoliso Airlines is a domestic carrier in Nigeria that was recently involved in an air crash. Check the web site for any updates regarding scheduling and service.
  • Chanchangi Airlines also a Nigerian domestic carrier. Its web site announces that routes to West Africa will be added soon, so check the site for updates.

Reunion

  • Air Austral is the natonal carrier for the Reunion Islands. Destinations include France, Belgium, Madagascar, the Seychelles and Johannesburg.

Senegal

  • Air Senegal International is owned by the Senegalese government and Royal Air Moroc. It has a very good network of flights throughout Western and Northern Africa. The airline also has direct flights to Portugal and several detsinations in France.
  • Afrinat International Airline offers regional services to Guinea, Sierra Leone, Mali, Ghana, Senegal and the Gambia.

South Africa

  • South African Airlines is Southern Africa's biggest airline with routes to Asia, South America, North America, Europe and Australia. Their regional network extends throughout Southern, Western and East Africa.
  • South African Express offers 13 South African domestic flights and several regional destinations including Namibia, Botswana, and the DRC.
  • Airlink offers mainly domestic flights within South Arica but is starting to branch out regionally as well. They offer flights to Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Madagascar. Airlink has replaced Swaziland's national airline.
  • Kulula is a low-cost airline operating domestically as well as regionally. Routes include Cape Town, Durban, George, Harare and Lusaka.
  • Venture Air offers scheduled domestic destinations and charter services. Scheduled flights include Kruger, Cape Town, Plettenberg, Johannesburg and more.
  • Nationwide Airlines offers domestic routes within South Africa and a charter flight to Livingstone (Zambia).

Sudan

  • Sudan Airways is the country's national airline and has been operating since the 1940's. Their domestic network includes the major towns in Sudan. Service within Africa includes Cairo, Kano, Tripoli, Nairobi, Entebbe, Addis Ababa, and Niamey. They also offer daily flights to the Middle East.

Tanzania

  • Air Tanzania is Tanzania's national carrier based in Dar es Salaam. The airlines offers regional flights to Johannesburg, Comoros islands, and Entebbe. Domestic flights include Mwanza, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar.
  • Precision Air is a domestic airline with a very comprehensive network (which is important in Tanzania since the roads aren't very good) and they also offer flights to Mombasa and Nairobi.

Tunisia

  • Tunis Air is Tunisia's national carrier. They fly to more than 30 countries, most of them in Europe. Regionally the cover the North African capitals and some West African destinations.
  • Kathargo Airlines is a low-cost airline based in Tunisia which offers flights to various European destinations. The web site is in French.
  • Nouvelair offers charter flights to European destinations from various tourist resorts in Tunisia.

Uganda

  • East African Airlines is Uganda's biggest airline but their web site is currently under construction (03/2006).
  • Eagle Air is a domestic airline and flies to the major national Parks and towns of Uganda.

Zambia

  • Zambian Airways offers domestic services as well as flights to Malawi, Congo and South Africa.

Zimbabwe

  • Air Zimbabwe is the country's national carrier and offers internal flights as well as regional destinations including Malawi, Zambia, South Africa, Kenya, Tanzania, Mauritius and Dubai.