Eat like a local: Melbourne

The vibrant city of Melbourne, Australia, is rich in cultural life and good food. Here we highlight a handful of memorable eateries.

Cicciolina

The tiny dining room and no-reservations policy mean that people arrive early, around 6 p.m., and stand three deep at the back bar waiting for a table. Seasonal items like white asparagus and Moreton Bay bugs (Australian crustaceans similar to rock lobsters) cycle on and off the specials blackboard, but it's the pastas, risottos and perfectly grilled steaks that the trattoria's loyal customers crave. 130 Acland St., St. Kilda, 011-61/3-9525-3333, entrées from $11

The Botanical

Early-risers flock to "the Bot" -- across the street from the Royal Botanic Gardens -- for a "brekky" of poached eggs on wood-oven-baked black pudding, or pancakes with lemon curd and passion fruit. Sunlight pours into the loft-like space, reflecting off the foliage-motif drawings that grace the whitewashed walls. 169 Domain Rd., S. Yarra, 011-61/3-9820-7888, entrées from $9

Agapi

The no-frills Greek taverna with tin ceilings and exposed-brick walls has been family run since 1969. Though the second generation of owners -- brothers Peter and Arthur Vorilas -- were born Down Under, their menu features authentic Hellenic dishes like gyros -- the lamb is rubbed with oregano, salt and paprika and served in a pita alongside onion and crushed tomato. 262 Swan St., Richmond, 011-61/3-9428-8337, entrées from $14

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